Today we will discuss the climate parameters for indoor cultivation. We will find out what tools we can use to influence the temperature and humidity indicators. Welcome to everyone! More coco nutrients for your grow boxes here. Take cookies, make tea, and let’s start with the temperature…
Most importantly the weather in the growbox
The most important thing to watch out for when growing indoors is temperature. High temperature (above extreme value, see below) – loose and negligible result. A low temperature (below the extreme value, but not so much that everything freezes into ice) is a negligible and so long result. Hence the question involuntarily arises: what temperature should be in the grow box?
The optimum air temperature in the box should vary from 22 ° C to 26 ° C. At night, this figure should decrease by 2-5 ° C. As for the extreme values, it is desirable that the temperature in the grow box does not rise above 30 ° C and does not fall below 15 ° C. However, the air temperature is not the only indicator, it is also important to monitor the temperature of the nutrient solution, which should be at 18 ° C for the plant to be happy.
The main heat source in a grow box is the lamp. Everyone’s favorite HPS is capable of heating up to 300 ° C, so using it without a CoolTube type lamp is not the best solution. To evenly distribute the temperature over the entire area of the grow box, use the fans for blowing and correctly think over the ventilation system.
The temperature outside the box is no less (and in most cases MORE) important if the air comes from a closed room in which the greenhouse is installed. The temperature in the room where the growbox is located should be around 20 ° C – 24 ° C. If the air is too warm, then inside the growbox he will have nowhere to cool, but he can warm up even more with ease. Here, only an air conditioner installed in a room with a growbox can come to the rescue, or, in extreme cases, an open window. And if it is summer outside and the temperature is quickly approaching 30 ° C, you cannot do without an air conditioner.
If the temperature is much lower than the comfortable one for the plant (for example, the growbox is in a weakly heated room, and the weather outside the window is not warm), a heater can come to the rescue: oil, convector is a matter of taste. It is also possible not to take the ECG outside the growbox, but it is better not to reduce the ventilation intensity for a more efficient temperature distribution.
How do I regulate the temperature in my grow box?
Moving on to the fun part. Here is a list of everything you need at your “observation point” for temperature:
1) Thermostat. Designed to maintain a constant air temperature, it works on the principle of volumetric thermal expansion. You can get to know this device in more detail on your own by simply asking Google.
2) Temperature controller with a built-in sensor. The device is more complicated, it controls the on, off, and intensity of work of various equipment installed in the grow box.
4) A coil of wires to connect all this beauty together.
Humidity in the growbox
The next parameter that must be carefully monitored for the plant to be happy is moisture. Remember the main rule about humidity in a grow box: the higher the temperature, the higher the air’s capacity to volume the moisture content. If simpler, the warmer, the higher the humidity can be, and the higher the likelihood of mold.
Now a little about plant physiology. We will not surprise anyone if we say that the plant absorbs water through the root system and then, in the process of transpiration, evaporates through the leaves, thus the plant cools itself. The moisture level affects the rate at which water moves inside the plant, hence another rule, the higher the humidity, the slower the evaporation.
Too low a level causes the plant to spend a lot of energy evaporating water through the leaves into the air. Too high a humidity level does not allow the plant to effectively cool itself; at 100% humidity, the evaporation process stops completely. The only exception can be considered only some species of tropical and equatorial plants. A significant change in moisture in a short time can harm the plant. So an increase or decrease in humidity by 20% -30% within a few minutes can cause damage to the plant’s cell tissue, since during this time it does not have time to adapt. All processes in the plant occur slowly, with a sharp increase in humidity, the plant will accumulate water in the leaves and fruits without the possibility of normal evaporation, and the result may be cell damage.
The ideal humidity level in a grow box is 60-70%. For rooting cuttings and germinating seedlings, a level of at least 80% is needed. At the flowering stage, it is better to lower the humidity to 30-50%.
How do I keep my growbox humid?
Devices that will be needed to control humidity when growing indoors:
1) Hygrometer with a remote sensor;
2) A pallet with wet expanded clay, sand, or peat is the easiest and cheapest way to increase humidity. You can also just spray water into the air with a spray bottle, but the effect will be too short-lived;
3) Air humidifier, household, or compact. With a volume of 3-5 liters, it can be installed directly between the plants, however, the volume of the grow box must be taken into account so that the air is humidified in sufficient quantity;
4) Air dryer which can be purchased at any hardware store. Usually it is equipped with a hygrostat, which allows you to automatically monitor the level of humidity in the room, turn the device on and off when a preset value is reached.
Problems to face
As for the temperature, if you do not monitor this parameter, then there are only two ways, either freeze the plant, or freeze it with heat and subsequently lose the entire crop. Regarding humidity, things are a little more complicated: First problem. If at the seedling stage the plant does not have enough moisture, the seedlings will be sluggish and their growth will be slowed down. Use greenhouses for the first 3-7 days. Plain plastic cups do a great job with this function. Remember, a healthy and happy seedling will greatly increase your chances of growing a complete plant.
Second problem. Rot on flowers and fruits. With uncontrolled and high humidity, the risk of mold development is very high. It spreads with great speed and can almost completely destroy the crop. It is important, in the second half of flowering, to reduce the humidity in the grow box to 50%, this will guarantee protection against mold formation and will stimulate the plant to produce resins. The exhaust ventilation should work 24 hours, but remember to smell and use a charcoal filter.
Third problem.Fire safety. If the growbox is entwined with wires, and the room is not quite suitable, for example, an apartment in an old house, then it is better not to tempt fate and run a separate power cable. Pay special attention to the timer set for lighting, if any. If the timer is too cheap, sticks or does not work correctly, this can lead to sad consequences, for example, the appearance of hermaphrodite plants, not to mention the potential danger in the form of fire.
There are several options to control and regulate microclimate parameters in a grow box: either assemble everything yourself or use ready-made solutions. For everyone who is not Elon and not even Musk, we suggest taking a closer look at a couple of options: a thermostat with a Ringder TP-221 hygrometer (used for poultry farming) and Microclimate from E-mode.
Instead of a resume
Any investment in the growing process is an investment in the future increase in yield. Automation, control, lighting, high-quality fertilizers are all necessary components for a successful and high-quality grow. The increase in yield is guaranteed to pay off any investment. Therefore, leave the devices intended for poultry farming to the poultry farmers, and use the equipment designed for this purpose to grow plants.
Great harvests for you!